Complete Custom Painting and Restoration offers commercial painting for new construction, tenant improvement and commercial remodel. One thing that is consistent with commercial painting is the need to fully understand and meet scheduling requirements. While you may think some questions are a minor issue, the more facts you know about the job site and the job schedule, the more likely you are to have success and impress the contractor. I always cover schedule requirements prior to starting work and even go as far as asking detailed questions within the schedule. It is not enough to know that a contractor wants a project done in 7 days, you must know as many details as possible within that 7 days to have success.
If I don't ask the detailed questions then I would probably end up scrambling to make sure the job is done up to the highest standard, or end up bringing on more painters to finish on time. This can cost money so it needs to be avoided.
Some questions that I always ask are:
1. How many phases is the job going to be done in
2. How many days do I have within each phase to finish the painting and decorating work
3. Is the grid going to be in prior to our first coat
4. Is the floor going to be in prior to our first coat
5. Will the floor be covered by the drywall contractor
6. Will the drywall contractor vacuum after their final sweep
7. Do you like us to start at a certain time in the morning
8. Do you like us to finish by a certain time at night
9. Can we work weekends
10. Can we work nights
11. What are the security requirements
12. What are the safety requirements
13. What other contractors will be on site during our working time
The list could continue but at a minimum I like to know at least this much. The more I know prior to work starting, the better the outcome.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561 cellular phone
Friday, January 23, 2009
Monday, January 12, 2009
Painter Twin Cities Metro Area offers cash back
Complete Custom Painting is offering a 3% referral cash back reward for any referrals that turn into a completed and paid paint job. Our program goes like this.
Goal 1: Prior to the job starting we offer our sign off sheet that measures our performance and lets our customers know it will be our job to meet and exceed all of the job requirements.
Goal 2: As always we stick to our goal of quality work with quality products and finish on time in a professional manor.
Goal 3: We do a final walk-through with the customer and they fill out the final sign off sheet. At the bottom of the sign off sheet is a request for a referral. The referral is not required but any referral that turns into a signed job that pays in full would earn the customer who referred us cash back of 3%.
OVERALL GOAL: Do a great job for each customer so every customer wants to refer us.
Question: Why 3 % Cash Back for any customer?
Answer: Because advertising is expensive and I'd rather pay it to my customers. It costs lots of money for print advertising, yard signs, trips to contractors offices for blue-prints, on-line lead services, price cutting for contractors for additional work etc, etc, etc.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING
651-336-0561
Goal 1: Prior to the job starting we offer our sign off sheet that measures our performance and lets our customers know it will be our job to meet and exceed all of the job requirements.
Goal 2: As always we stick to our goal of quality work with quality products and finish on time in a professional manor.
Goal 3: We do a final walk-through with the customer and they fill out the final sign off sheet. At the bottom of the sign off sheet is a request for a referral. The referral is not required but any referral that turns into a signed job that pays in full would earn the customer who referred us cash back of 3%.
OVERALL GOAL: Do a great job for each customer so every customer wants to refer us.
Question: Why 3 % Cash Back for any customer?
Answer: Because advertising is expensive and I'd rather pay it to my customers. It costs lots of money for print advertising, yard signs, trips to contractors offices for blue-prints, on-line lead services, price cutting for contractors for additional work etc, etc, etc.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING
651-336-0561
Monday, January 5, 2009
Fine Finishing
The only standard for sprayed enamel or sprayed clear coat is a perfect standard. For this reason I don't recommend a process involving less than 3 coats.
If you are enameling trim, doors etc it will take a full 3 coats to get the results you want. The first coat will be a primer. You will follow that up with sanding putty and caulk. The 2nd coat will be a quality enamel with an extender added. I recommend a oil based enamel for a new construction setting and a waterbased enamel in a re-paint scenario. I thin the 2nd coat roughly 20 percent with Penetrol. I follow up the 2nd coat with more sanding, putty and caulk. The final coat is only thinned down about 5 to 10 percent. The thinner for enamel work should only be a product made for extending the life of your enamel as well making it "lay down." Do not use paint thinner to thin enamel.
For sprayed varnish or lacquer I recommend using only products that are meant to be sprayed. Using a polyurethane in a sprayer can give you varried results. Laquer and 1 hour varnish work well in a HVLP or Airless sprayer but using a product that dries slowly in either can be asking for trouble. Oil based polyurethane dries slowly and is far more touchy than Varnish or Lacquer. Water based Polyurethane works well in sprayer but will require a minimum of 3 coats if not 4 to get the desired finish. It is important to understand the correct product given the setting to make sure that your new millwork has the perfect finish.
NICK DETTINGER
651-336-0561
If you are enameling trim, doors etc it will take a full 3 coats to get the results you want. The first coat will be a primer. You will follow that up with sanding putty and caulk. The 2nd coat will be a quality enamel with an extender added. I recommend a oil based enamel for a new construction setting and a waterbased enamel in a re-paint scenario. I thin the 2nd coat roughly 20 percent with Penetrol. I follow up the 2nd coat with more sanding, putty and caulk. The final coat is only thinned down about 5 to 10 percent. The thinner for enamel work should only be a product made for extending the life of your enamel as well making it "lay down." Do not use paint thinner to thin enamel.
For sprayed varnish or lacquer I recommend using only products that are meant to be sprayed. Using a polyurethane in a sprayer can give you varried results. Laquer and 1 hour varnish work well in a HVLP or Airless sprayer but using a product that dries slowly in either can be asking for trouble. Oil based polyurethane dries slowly and is far more touchy than Varnish or Lacquer. Water based Polyurethane works well in sprayer but will require a minimum of 3 coats if not 4 to get the desired finish. It is important to understand the correct product given the setting to make sure that your new millwork has the perfect finish.
NICK DETTINGER
651-336-0561
Monday, August 25, 2008
Communication is important.
A few times a year I will be asked to pick up the slack for a different painting contractor who didn't complete his job to the homeowners (or general contractors) standards. Such is the case in only 2 scenerios:
1. The contractor didn't have the skill to do the job he said he could do or
2. The homeowner and contractor didn't communicate the proper standard for the job.
A professional standard is the only standard to expect out of a painting contractor. With that said. Different levels of finish can be provided at different prices.
Example: A painting contractor could get a peice of previously painted cedar siding totally smooth by using a power sander. That same peice of previsouly painted cedar could simply be scraped and scuff sanded.
Both examples would fall under the category of "professional" painter work. The board will not, however look the same after being painted.
The example are endless. It is the contractors reponsibility to point this out the the customer. It is the customers responsibility to communicate what they want after the the professional painting contractor has given them their options.
If the the painting contractor has given the homeowner the options, and the homeowner has told the painting contractor that it is not important to them (or the homeowner picks one option), then any changes from that plan may require an additional work order. With that said the homeowner may be required to pay more money.
Generally speaking homeowners are not excited about additional work orders. For that reason, communication prior to work starting is probably one of the most important things a professional painting contractor can do for his customers.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
1. The contractor didn't have the skill to do the job he said he could do or
2. The homeowner and contractor didn't communicate the proper standard for the job.
A professional standard is the only standard to expect out of a painting contractor. With that said. Different levels of finish can be provided at different prices.
Example: A painting contractor could get a peice of previously painted cedar siding totally smooth by using a power sander. That same peice of previsouly painted cedar could simply be scraped and scuff sanded.
Both examples would fall under the category of "professional" painter work. The board will not, however look the same after being painted.
The example are endless. It is the contractors reponsibility to point this out the the customer. It is the customers responsibility to communicate what they want after the the professional painting contractor has given them their options.
If the the painting contractor has given the homeowner the options, and the homeowner has told the painting contractor that it is not important to them (or the homeowner picks one option), then any changes from that plan may require an additional work order. With that said the homeowner may be required to pay more money.
Generally speaking homeowners are not excited about additional work orders. For that reason, communication prior to work starting is probably one of the most important things a professional painting contractor can do for his customers.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Different Surfaces Require Different Preparation
Q. Should I wash a real wood surface (like cedar siding) the same way I would wash T-111 (composite wood siding)?
A. No. Different surfaces require different treatment. a composite wood will generally require a detergent wash and not an overly agreesive power wash. I was watching TV ( I believe it was This OlD House) and they were demonstrating how to power wash. They were holding a high pressure sprayer about 1 inch from a wood deck and you could see the dirt totally being blasted out of the wood. ONE PROBLEM. While that may make the wood seem clean at first, after it dries the wood will likely be damaged or require a massive amount of sanding to get stain to sit evenly on it.
You should never use a power washer to remove something that could otherwise be removed by hand (sanding, scraping or paint removal machine) or by an environmentally friendly detergent.
Try cleaning the surface with either JOMAX, TSP or M1 House wash. If you add exteremely Hot water to one of these detergents and scrub them on with a medium bristle brush, you will likely get a better result than an agressive power wash but not damage the surface.
The same is true for scraping and sanding or use of a paint removal machine.
Make sure you do the wash after the scraping and sanding as they are likely to create dust.
Cement surfaces are different but just remember: Aggressive power washing and wood or composite wood do NOT MIX
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
A. No. Different surfaces require different treatment. a composite wood will generally require a detergent wash and not an overly agreesive power wash. I was watching TV ( I believe it was This OlD House) and they were demonstrating how to power wash. They were holding a high pressure sprayer about 1 inch from a wood deck and you could see the dirt totally being blasted out of the wood. ONE PROBLEM. While that may make the wood seem clean at first, after it dries the wood will likely be damaged or require a massive amount of sanding to get stain to sit evenly on it.
You should never use a power washer to remove something that could otherwise be removed by hand (sanding, scraping or paint removal machine) or by an environmentally friendly detergent.
Try cleaning the surface with either JOMAX, TSP or M1 House wash. If you add exteremely Hot water to one of these detergents and scrub them on with a medium bristle brush, you will likely get a better result than an agressive power wash but not damage the surface.
The same is true for scraping and sanding or use of a paint removal machine.
Make sure you do the wash after the scraping and sanding as they are likely to create dust.
Cement surfaces are different but just remember: Aggressive power washing and wood or composite wood do NOT MIX
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
Friday, January 11, 2008
Hardie Plank: Buying it pre-finished or paint it on the house
Q: Is it better to buy buy a pre-finished Hardie Job or buy it pre-primed and paint it on the house?
A: In depends on the following:
The criteria for buying a pre-finished Hardie plank job are the following:
1. You are replacing all the siding on your house and not individual sides or boards.
2. You have selected a installer who specializes in pre-finished siding installation and not someone who has done 1 or two jobs (if you don't you'll end up painting the whole thing anyway)
3. You don't need to do other painting like the soffit, fascia, doors, windows, etc (I'll explain why below)
4. You don't want any Hardie Shake on your house.
5. You don't want a color outside of the options that Hardie gives you.
The criteria for buying a job that needs to be painted on the house (pre-primed) are as follows:
1. You want a custom color or are working with a exterior designer
2. You have selected an installer that has not worked with pre-finished Hardie before (because you have checked all references)
3. You want Hardie Shake in the gables or decrotive trim.
4. You need to do other painting anyway like the soffit, fascia, doors, window sashes, trim, etc. The cost of doing those items may be less if you opt to do the siding as well, and you'll only know the total cost if you include the price of painting with the price of siding. Only after you compared the siding and painting costs in both scenerios, will you be able to determine the total cost of each.
5. You only want to replace parts of the siding and not all of it.
Important to note: Don't let a siding installer tell you that a pre-finished Hardie job is better than painting. It may or may not be. If you choose the right painter (someone who has done a detergent wash, backrolled the first coat, painted in the right conditions and uses quality products) the on site job provides a superior finish. Often times I'll talk to homeowners who say "the pre-finished job is baked on." Not true. A pre-finished Hardie job is NOT baked on. It is put through a heated environment that allows it to cure faster. This is done to control the environment and so they can produce more in a shorter amount of time. Acrylic paints don't "bake on." In fact, right on most cans of acrylic paint it says you are not supposed to put paint on surfaces that are above a certain temperature.
Remember, talk to multiple contractors and consider multiple options.
Nick Dettering
651-336-0561
A: In depends on the following:
The criteria for buying a pre-finished Hardie plank job are the following:
1. You are replacing all the siding on your house and not individual sides or boards.
2. You have selected a installer who specializes in pre-finished siding installation and not someone who has done 1 or two jobs (if you don't you'll end up painting the whole thing anyway)
3. You don't need to do other painting like the soffit, fascia, doors, windows, etc (I'll explain why below)
4. You don't want any Hardie Shake on your house.
5. You don't want a color outside of the options that Hardie gives you.
The criteria for buying a job that needs to be painted on the house (pre-primed) are as follows:
1. You want a custom color or are working with a exterior designer
2. You have selected an installer that has not worked with pre-finished Hardie before (because you have checked all references)
3. You want Hardie Shake in the gables or decrotive trim.
4. You need to do other painting anyway like the soffit, fascia, doors, window sashes, trim, etc. The cost of doing those items may be less if you opt to do the siding as well, and you'll only know the total cost if you include the price of painting with the price of siding. Only after you compared the siding and painting costs in both scenerios, will you be able to determine the total cost of each.
5. You only want to replace parts of the siding and not all of it.
Important to note: Don't let a siding installer tell you that a pre-finished Hardie job is better than painting. It may or may not be. If you choose the right painter (someone who has done a detergent wash, backrolled the first coat, painted in the right conditions and uses quality products) the on site job provides a superior finish. Often times I'll talk to homeowners who say "the pre-finished job is baked on." Not true. A pre-finished Hardie job is NOT baked on. It is put through a heated environment that allows it to cure faster. This is done to control the environment and so they can produce more in a shorter amount of time. Acrylic paints don't "bake on." In fact, right on most cans of acrylic paint it says you are not supposed to put paint on surfaces that are above a certain temperature.
Remember, talk to multiple contractors and consider multiple options.
Nick Dettering
651-336-0561
Tuesday, January 1, 2008
Exterior Painting Twin Cities/Metro Area
Q: What is the difference between exterior solid acrylic stain and paint?
A: Not much in the look. In fact, if you were to ask 100 painters if they could tell the difference between solid acrylic stain or a coat of paint on a metal door I'd be willing to bet the honest ones would tell you "no."
There are differences in the properties that make up both products however, Solid acrylic stain generally is said not to require a primer prior to being applyed directly to wood. Acrylic paint ALWAYS requires a primer. Acrylic stain is gernerally thinner and paint is gernerally thicker (Although how thick a paint is in the can doesn't mean it is better always). It depends on the application and how often a person is planning of maintenancing what ever it is they are painting. For a custom bid and the CORRECT application call me.
Nick Dettinger
White Bear Lake, MN
METRO AREA
651-336-0561
A: Not much in the look. In fact, if you were to ask 100 painters if they could tell the difference between solid acrylic stain or a coat of paint on a metal door I'd be willing to bet the honest ones would tell you "no."
There are differences in the properties that make up both products however, Solid acrylic stain generally is said not to require a primer prior to being applyed directly to wood. Acrylic paint ALWAYS requires a primer. Acrylic stain is gernerally thinner and paint is gernerally thicker (Although how thick a paint is in the can doesn't mean it is better always). It depends on the application and how often a person is planning of maintenancing what ever it is they are painting. For a custom bid and the CORRECT application call me.
Nick Dettinger
White Bear Lake, MN
METRO AREA
651-336-0561
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