What is a reasonable exterior painting warranty? Does it Cover the Cost of Applying the Paint?
There are a lot of paints starting to emerge that say things like "35 year warranty" or "Life Time Warranty" on the can. It sounds like a great deal but like most warranties before assuming that the paint will actually last 35 years you should read the entire warranty on the can.
If you do you will find that the "Life Time Warranty" is actually no warranty at all. The exclusions on ALL of the paints that I have used that claim to have a "Life Time Warranty" include the following:
Does not warrant against fading.
Does not warrant against paint on horizontal surfaces.
Does not warrant against damage as a result of water.
Does not warrant against damage as a result of vapor barrier issues, improperly installed windows, improperly installed siding, unclean surfaces, surfaces that were too hot or cold.
Warranty includes ONLY THE PAINT for the areas in question that are failing.
Warranty does not include the cost of application or labor.
So you can see that if your paint does fail, the likelihood of the paint manufacturer actually paying to have it fixed is almost none. Even if they do "take care of the problem" they will only do so by providing one gallon of paint. The homeowner is still responsible for the labor to apply it and all the other paint they will need to purchase because it won't match (being that the paint manufacturer will only warranty areas that are failing and the assumption is that not all of the paint on the entire house is coming off).
So the homeowner is left with choosing a good painting company that will warranty their work.
What is a Reasonable Exterior Paint Warranty THAT ALSO INCLUDES THE LABOR IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG?
Depends on the surfaces but as a general guideline,
The PDCA recommends 1 year on all surfaces.
It is reasonable to offer more than one year on the appropriate surface but the reason that the PDCA recommends only 1 year is because surfaces like wood, steel or areas that are exposed to excessive moisture are areas that will need maintenance.
Something like James Hardie Siding will last longer and if you are lucky your metal gutter paint job might last 10 years (even though they are warranted for 1 year). I painted my gutters and down spouts 7 years ago and they are still in excellent shape. I used one prime coat and 1 top coat. Even though they've had snow pile on them, they have not peeled. However, it would be a bad idea to assume that would be the case for all metal surfaces and go around telling customers that their paint jobs "will last a life time."
Everything in Minnesota needs maintenance if it is outside. Be wary of painters that say they are offering a lifetime warranty. Make sure you read the entire warrany on any can of paint. Not just the part that says "Life Time Warranty."
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Should I replace my cedar siding or paint it?
If you drive around your neighborhood you'll likely see a house or two that have cedar siding that has turned black. Normally that is a sign that mold growth has started. In a short amount of time dead wood fiber has built up on the surface of the wood and it is almost beyond repair. If you don't mind having a house that has moldy siding then you can keep it. If you don't mind spending thousands of dollars replacing cedar siding because you neglected to care for it then its not a big deal either. Normally you can tell for sure if the cedar needs to be replaced or not once you start the washing, or if you push a knife or moisture meter into it and it is rotten then it needs to be replaced (or at least replacing it is your best option).
However, the best solution is to give it a good wash and top coat, every 3-5 years so you're never faced with a black moldy house. Wash it then coat it with a wood preservative. I recommend X-100. It is a ABR product and I've gotten the very best results with it. I also recommend using a the X-180 wash prior to the top coat as it has a additive in it that kills mold.
The only step that remains after this point is to make sure to sand off any of the wood fibers that were raised when you did the wash. This is an important step
Overall it is important to care for your cedar (decks , siding lawn furniture) every 3 years or so so you get the maximum life out of the siding.
Your house will look better too.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561 cellular phone
However, the best solution is to give it a good wash and top coat, every 3-5 years so you're never faced with a black moldy house. Wash it then coat it with a wood preservative. I recommend X-100. It is a ABR product and I've gotten the very best results with it. I also recommend using a the X-180 wash prior to the top coat as it has a additive in it that kills mold.
The only step that remains after this point is to make sure to sand off any of the wood fibers that were raised when you did the wash. This is an important step
Overall it is important to care for your cedar (decks , siding lawn furniture) every 3 years or so so you get the maximum life out of the siding.
Your house will look better too.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561 cellular phone
Friday, January 23, 2009
Commerical Painting requires excellent time management
Complete Custom Painting and Restoration offers commercial painting for new construction, tenant improvement and commercial remodel. One thing that is consistent with commercial painting is the need to fully understand and meet scheduling requirements. While you may think some questions are a minor issue, the more facts you know about the job site and the job schedule, the more likely you are to have success and impress the contractor. I always cover schedule requirements prior to starting work and even go as far as asking detailed questions within the schedule. It is not enough to know that a contractor wants a project done in 7 days, you must know as many details as possible within that 7 days to have success.
If I don't ask the detailed questions then I would probably end up scrambling to make sure the job is done up to the highest standard, or end up bringing on more painters to finish on time. This can cost money so it needs to be avoided.
Some questions that I always ask are:
1. How many phases is the job going to be done in
2. How many days do I have within each phase to finish the painting and decorating work
3. Is the grid going to be in prior to our first coat
4. Is the floor going to be in prior to our first coat
5. Will the floor be covered by the drywall contractor
6. Will the drywall contractor vacuum after their final sweep
7. Do you like us to start at a certain time in the morning
8. Do you like us to finish by a certain time at night
9. Can we work weekends
10. Can we work nights
11. What are the security requirements
12. What are the safety requirements
13. What other contractors will be on site during our working time
The list could continue but at a minimum I like to know at least this much. The more I know prior to work starting, the better the outcome.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561 cellular phone
If I don't ask the detailed questions then I would probably end up scrambling to make sure the job is done up to the highest standard, or end up bringing on more painters to finish on time. This can cost money so it needs to be avoided.
Some questions that I always ask are:
1. How many phases is the job going to be done in
2. How many days do I have within each phase to finish the painting and decorating work
3. Is the grid going to be in prior to our first coat
4. Is the floor going to be in prior to our first coat
5. Will the floor be covered by the drywall contractor
6. Will the drywall contractor vacuum after their final sweep
7. Do you like us to start at a certain time in the morning
8. Do you like us to finish by a certain time at night
9. Can we work weekends
10. Can we work nights
11. What are the security requirements
12. What are the safety requirements
13. What other contractors will be on site during our working time
The list could continue but at a minimum I like to know at least this much. The more I know prior to work starting, the better the outcome.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561 cellular phone
Monday, January 12, 2009
Painter Twin Cities Metro Area offers cash back
Complete Custom Painting is offering a 3% referral cash back reward for any referrals that turn into a completed and paid paint job. Our program goes like this.
Goal 1: Prior to the job starting we offer our sign off sheet that measures our performance and lets our customers know it will be our job to meet and exceed all of the job requirements.
Goal 2: As always we stick to our goal of quality work with quality products and finish on time in a professional manor.
Goal 3: We do a final walk-through with the customer and they fill out the final sign off sheet. At the bottom of the sign off sheet is a request for a referral. The referral is not required but any referral that turns into a signed job that pays in full would earn the customer who referred us cash back of 3%.
OVERALL GOAL: Do a great job for each customer so every customer wants to refer us.
Question: Why 3 % Cash Back for any customer?
Answer: Because advertising is expensive and I'd rather pay it to my customers. It costs lots of money for print advertising, yard signs, trips to contractors offices for blue-prints, on-line lead services, price cutting for contractors for additional work etc, etc, etc.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING
651-336-0561
Goal 1: Prior to the job starting we offer our sign off sheet that measures our performance and lets our customers know it will be our job to meet and exceed all of the job requirements.
Goal 2: As always we stick to our goal of quality work with quality products and finish on time in a professional manor.
Goal 3: We do a final walk-through with the customer and they fill out the final sign off sheet. At the bottom of the sign off sheet is a request for a referral. The referral is not required but any referral that turns into a signed job that pays in full would earn the customer who referred us cash back of 3%.
OVERALL GOAL: Do a great job for each customer so every customer wants to refer us.
Question: Why 3 % Cash Back for any customer?
Answer: Because advertising is expensive and I'd rather pay it to my customers. It costs lots of money for print advertising, yard signs, trips to contractors offices for blue-prints, on-line lead services, price cutting for contractors for additional work etc, etc, etc.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING
651-336-0561
Monday, January 5, 2009
Fine Finishing
The only standard for sprayed enamel or sprayed clear coat is a perfect standard. For this reason I don't recommend a process involving less than 3 coats.
If you are enameling trim, doors etc it will take a full 3 coats to get the results you want. The first coat will be a primer. You will follow that up with sanding putty and caulk. The 2nd coat will be a quality enamel with an extender added. I recommend a oil based enamel for a new construction setting and a waterbased enamel in a re-paint scenario. I thin the 2nd coat roughly 20 percent with Penetrol. I follow up the 2nd coat with more sanding, putty and caulk. The final coat is only thinned down about 5 to 10 percent. The thinner for enamel work should only be a product made for extending the life of your enamel as well making it "lay down." Do not use paint thinner to thin enamel.
For sprayed varnish or lacquer I recommend using only products that are meant to be sprayed. Using a polyurethane in a sprayer can give you varried results. Laquer and 1 hour varnish work well in a HVLP or Airless sprayer but using a product that dries slowly in either can be asking for trouble. Oil based polyurethane dries slowly and is far more touchy than Varnish or Lacquer. Water based Polyurethane works well in sprayer but will require a minimum of 3 coats if not 4 to get the desired finish. It is important to understand the correct product given the setting to make sure that your new millwork has the perfect finish.
NICK DETTINGER
651-336-0561
If you are enameling trim, doors etc it will take a full 3 coats to get the results you want. The first coat will be a primer. You will follow that up with sanding putty and caulk. The 2nd coat will be a quality enamel with an extender added. I recommend a oil based enamel for a new construction setting and a waterbased enamel in a re-paint scenario. I thin the 2nd coat roughly 20 percent with Penetrol. I follow up the 2nd coat with more sanding, putty and caulk. The final coat is only thinned down about 5 to 10 percent. The thinner for enamel work should only be a product made for extending the life of your enamel as well making it "lay down." Do not use paint thinner to thin enamel.
For sprayed varnish or lacquer I recommend using only products that are meant to be sprayed. Using a polyurethane in a sprayer can give you varried results. Laquer and 1 hour varnish work well in a HVLP or Airless sprayer but using a product that dries slowly in either can be asking for trouble. Oil based polyurethane dries slowly and is far more touchy than Varnish or Lacquer. Water based Polyurethane works well in sprayer but will require a minimum of 3 coats if not 4 to get the desired finish. It is important to understand the correct product given the setting to make sure that your new millwork has the perfect finish.
NICK DETTINGER
651-336-0561
Monday, August 25, 2008
Communication is important.
A few times a year I will be asked to pick up the slack for a different painting contractor who didn't complete his job to the homeowners (or general contractors) standards. Such is the case in only 2 scenerios:
1. The contractor didn't have the skill to do the job he said he could do or
2. The homeowner and contractor didn't communicate the proper standard for the job.
A professional standard is the only standard to expect out of a painting contractor. With that said. Different levels of finish can be provided at different prices.
Example: A painting contractor could get a peice of previously painted cedar siding totally smooth by using a power sander. That same peice of previsouly painted cedar could simply be scraped and scuff sanded.
Both examples would fall under the category of "professional" painter work. The board will not, however look the same after being painted.
The example are endless. It is the contractors reponsibility to point this out the the customer. It is the customers responsibility to communicate what they want after the the professional painting contractor has given them their options.
If the the painting contractor has given the homeowner the options, and the homeowner has told the painting contractor that it is not important to them (or the homeowner picks one option), then any changes from that plan may require an additional work order. With that said the homeowner may be required to pay more money.
Generally speaking homeowners are not excited about additional work orders. For that reason, communication prior to work starting is probably one of the most important things a professional painting contractor can do for his customers.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
1. The contractor didn't have the skill to do the job he said he could do or
2. The homeowner and contractor didn't communicate the proper standard for the job.
A professional standard is the only standard to expect out of a painting contractor. With that said. Different levels of finish can be provided at different prices.
Example: A painting contractor could get a peice of previously painted cedar siding totally smooth by using a power sander. That same peice of previsouly painted cedar could simply be scraped and scuff sanded.
Both examples would fall under the category of "professional" painter work. The board will not, however look the same after being painted.
The example are endless. It is the contractors reponsibility to point this out the the customer. It is the customers responsibility to communicate what they want after the the professional painting contractor has given them their options.
If the the painting contractor has given the homeowner the options, and the homeowner has told the painting contractor that it is not important to them (or the homeowner picks one option), then any changes from that plan may require an additional work order. With that said the homeowner may be required to pay more money.
Generally speaking homeowners are not excited about additional work orders. For that reason, communication prior to work starting is probably one of the most important things a professional painting contractor can do for his customers.
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Different Surfaces Require Different Preparation
Q. Should I wash a real wood surface (like cedar siding) the same way I would wash T-111 (composite wood siding)?
A. No. Different surfaces require different treatment. a composite wood will generally require a detergent wash and not an overly agreesive power wash. I was watching TV ( I believe it was This OlD House) and they were demonstrating how to power wash. They were holding a high pressure sprayer about 1 inch from a wood deck and you could see the dirt totally being blasted out of the wood. ONE PROBLEM. While that may make the wood seem clean at first, after it dries the wood will likely be damaged or require a massive amount of sanding to get stain to sit evenly on it.
You should never use a power washer to remove something that could otherwise be removed by hand (sanding, scraping or paint removal machine) or by an environmentally friendly detergent.
Try cleaning the surface with either JOMAX, TSP or M1 House wash. If you add exteremely Hot water to one of these detergents and scrub them on with a medium bristle brush, you will likely get a better result than an agressive power wash but not damage the surface.
The same is true for scraping and sanding or use of a paint removal machine.
Make sure you do the wash after the scraping and sanding as they are likely to create dust.
Cement surfaces are different but just remember: Aggressive power washing and wood or composite wood do NOT MIX
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
A. No. Different surfaces require different treatment. a composite wood will generally require a detergent wash and not an overly agreesive power wash. I was watching TV ( I believe it was This OlD House) and they were demonstrating how to power wash. They were holding a high pressure sprayer about 1 inch from a wood deck and you could see the dirt totally being blasted out of the wood. ONE PROBLEM. While that may make the wood seem clean at first, after it dries the wood will likely be damaged or require a massive amount of sanding to get stain to sit evenly on it.
You should never use a power washer to remove something that could otherwise be removed by hand (sanding, scraping or paint removal machine) or by an environmentally friendly detergent.
Try cleaning the surface with either JOMAX, TSP or M1 House wash. If you add exteremely Hot water to one of these detergents and scrub them on with a medium bristle brush, you will likely get a better result than an agressive power wash but not damage the surface.
The same is true for scraping and sanding or use of a paint removal machine.
Make sure you do the wash after the scraping and sanding as they are likely to create dust.
Cement surfaces are different but just remember: Aggressive power washing and wood or composite wood do NOT MIX
NICK DETTINGER
COMPLETE CUSTOM PAINTING LLC
651-336-0561
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)